Tomáš Jurdák has a special relationship with Kreuzberg, Berlin. Its youthful population has created an eclectic mixture of communities that retain the old and embrace the new.
Perhaps it is no surprise that Kreuzberg has one of the youngest populations of all European city boroughs – its sense of vibrancy and tendency towards counterculture being a result of the youthful energy of its inhabitants.
Berlin has always been one of my favourite cities – with short flights from my hometown of Bratislava meaning it can play host to an impromptu weekend away; and more recently, its thriving economy making it an attractive place to do business. But Kreuzberg, in particular, has my heart: a rough diamond of a neighbourhood in one of the most metropolitan cities in the world. It cannot help but capture your attention and affection, and keep you coming back.
Many cite a city’s diversity as something that makes it special. Places like London and New York flourish as a result of the eclectic mix of communities that have made themselves at home over the years. But these pale into comparison when compared to Kreuzberg (or Kiez to its residents) – it is diverse almost by its very definition.
Before the Second World War, Kreuzberg was home to a significant Jewish population, and since then, rent regulations have attracted immigrants, students and artists from a wide range of backgrounds. More recently, there are growing numbers of young professionals and families, as well as activists and members of the LGBTQ community; everyone seems to coexist happily, making it a true melting pot.
Perhaps it is no surprise that Kreuzberg has one of the youngest populations of all European city boroughs – its vibrancy and tendency towards counterculture being a result of the youthful energy of its inhabitants. Even with my grey hair, I don’t feel uncomfortable discovering secret corners and neighbourhood bars buzzing with people, who sneak out in their pyjamas for a quick beer with friends.
Kiez’s ubiquitous Spätis – small grocery shops selling everything, but importantly large selections of drinks – are surrounded by dozens of chairs that spill into the road. People gather to discuss politics, art or even watch a football game (I’ve seen multiple screens set up on one street using long cables connected from various nearby apartments!). And then there’s the food itself. Personal favourites include Austrian-Hungarian fare (reminiscent of dishes my mother made) in Michelin-starred Horváth, incredible Eritrean cooking at TZOM, and moreish Turkish street food at No Bananas. You could have one course in each and digest in between while walking along the canal with a live jazz soundtrack!
This diversity is also evident in the built environment. Every street and corner is different and you can’t predict what will come next. For example, close to one of MiddleCap’s sites you will find homes in smart mansion buildings and scruffier co-housing blocks; a new office building with a garish gold façade, and the wooden castle of Moritzplatz directly opposite. Also nestled across the neighbourhood are start-up businesses, large corporate firms, cultural hubs, educational institutions, parks and riverside walkways. I can’t think of any other city that has such variety.
And yet, Kreuzberg is eminently walkable – both compact and accessible. Everything you need is on your doorstep and it’s easy to explore every corner of the neighbourhood. I am also excited by ambitious plans for a grid of safe cycle routes around the beautiful listed railway arches between Hallesches Tor and Kottbusser Tor. It’s the perfect example of a scheme that celebrates an area’s heritage, while addressing today’s need for sustainable and active travel provision.
What especially fascinates me is this ability to simultaneously retain the old and embrace the new. So many other cities grapple with this apparent dichotomy, but it seems entirely natural in Kreuzberg. Communities and politicians both appreciate the need for balance to allow for development, as long as it is not detrimental to the identity of its people or place. It means that anything feels possible, which is incredibly liberating in these often fraught socioeconomic times.
Now that MiddleCap is working in Kreuzberg, I am revelling in the excuse to visit more often – to experience its constant evolution and enduring character, as the genius loci of the whole of Berlin.
It’s vibrancy is a result of its youthful population – bars buzz with people who sneak out in their pyjamas for a quick beer with friends”
Source: Architecture Today